On average, each person in Europe* produces more than 15 kilograms of textile waste each year. Less than 1 percent of this waste is currently recycled into new textile products. With the right measures, this figure could rise to 18–26 percent by 2030, and CO2 emissions could be reduced by 4 million tons.
“An important first step is to invest in textile collection. At present, one-third of all used clothing is gathered, and the majority is exported for second-hand sales outside of Europe. To produce a sufficient amount of recycled textile threads for new clothes, the collection would need to increase to 50–80 percent”, says Anna Granskog, a partner at McKinsey's Helsinki office.
New technology creates job opportunities
A new textile recycling industry could create some 15,000 new jobs in Europe. For it to become a reality, investments in textile collection, increased use of new and existing recycling technology is required. For example, mechanical recycling of cotton, innovative processing into viscose fibers, and chemical recycling for the reuse of polyester.
At the same time, a number of challenges remain. Textile waste must be sorted using quality-oriented criteria, buttons and zippers removed, and fiber compositions clearly identified. Many products of comprised of mixed fibers pose a problem for fiber-to-fiber recycling for which there is not yet a solution.
Investment needed for scaling
In order to leverage the full potential of textile recycling, by 2030, total investment of EUR 6–7 billion is needed across the entire value chain – including collection, sorting, and the construction of recycling centers – with a possible annual return of 20 to 25 percent.
“Investment in fiber-to-fiber recycling is worthwhile not only on sustainability grounds, since new valuable raw materials can be created during recycling, which would enable more apparel production in Europe. This would lead to additional value creation", says Anna Granskog.
*Europe refers to the 27 EU member states and Switzerland.